Ober Gabelhorn
Mountain tour to the Obergabelhorn
Endurance
4Hiking Time: 8–9 hours. Up to approx. 1600 vertical meters. For experienced alpinists with excellent stamina.
Technik
4You've already climbed several 4000-meter peaks and are well acclimatized. Handling ice axe and crampons is second nature to you. Ridge climbs up to grade III and steep terrain on rock and ice pose no problem.
Duration
approx. 12 h
Date
Mid-July - Mid-September
Participants
1 person
Gallery (7)
The ascent of the Obergabelhorn is a real alpine adventure - challenging, long and scenically stunning. You start directly from Zermatt, without cable car support and with an overnight stay in a hut. You will be rewarded with a double summit experience, spectacular ridge climbing and one of the most beautiful panoramic views in the Alps. A high-altitude tour for ambitious alpinists - guided by the professionals of the ZERMATTERS.
Highlights
Description (from Rothornhütte)
Early in the morning, we climb from the Rothornhütte over the Trift Glacier up to the shoulder of the Wellenkuppe, where the climbing begins. Shortly before the summit of the Wellenkuppe, the rock turns to firn - we cross it and continue towards the Gendarm, the key point of the tour.
As a rule, we climb the Gendarm directly - an impressive rock tooth with a fantastic view down. Behind it, firn passages and easy climbing await you up to the summit of the Obergabelhorn (4,063 m). The way back follows the same route - technically demanding, but with impressive views of the four-thousand-metre peaks around Zermatt.
Program
Day 1: Individual ascent to the Rothorn hut
- Individual hike to the Rothornhütte from Zermatt
- Meeting point with your local, IFMGA-certified mountain guide at around 18:00 at the hut
Day 2: Ascent of Obergabelhorn
- Individual breakfast
- Start around 04:00
- Ascent via the Trift Glacier and the Wellenkuppe (normal route)
- Ascent of the Obergabelhorn over firn and rock
- Descent on the same route to the Rothornhütte
- Farewell and return hike to Zermatt
- Crampon compatible mountain shoes with a rigid Vibram sole
- Harness
- 1 carabiner
- Crampons with anti-balling plates
- Ice axe (for the Matterhorn: depending on the conditions)
- Hiking pole
- Helmet
- Backpack, approx. 30 l
- Warm and weatherproof clothes
- Finger gloves (evtl.changing gloves)
- Beanie / headband
- Sunglasses and sun protection
- Headlamp
- Drinks
- Energetic snacks (high energy foods such as chocolate, dried fruit etc.)
- Washing kit
- Few changing clothes
- Bandades
- Small personal pharmacy
- Innenliner (mandatory)
- Money, passport
Notes
The ascent of the Obergabelhorn is a challenging high-altitude tour. When making your booking inquiry, please let us know which four-thousand-metre peaks you have already climbed and what other mountaineering experience you have (Kilimanjaro and Mont Blanc Normalweg are not comparable with the Obergabelhorn, as these are not rock tours).
We recommend that you prepare for the challenge in advance with a guided training tour with us - for example on the Breithorn Traverse, Pollux or Riffelhorn. This is also an ideal way to acclimatize. This can also be done in a group, provided another person has registered for it.
After booking
After booking, you will receive a confirmation by email. Please check that your details are correct.
Two days before the tour, you will receive a link to the customer portal.
Please contact us before the tour to go over the details (current weather, conditions, group size, etc.). You can reach us by phone, email or visit us at the ZERMATTERS Homebase.
The Obergabelhorn
General information about the Obergabelhorn
- The Obergabelhorn is 4,063 m high and lies between Dent Blanche and Zinalrothorn - in the middle of the Couronne Impériale.
- The ascent is either via the Wellenkuppe (from Rothornhütte) or via the Arbengrat (from Arbenbiwak).
- The Obergabelhorn has a glaciated north face and a completely snow-free south face - both are still climbed today.
Special features of the Obergabelhorn
- The entire summit chain from the Matterhorn to the Weisshorn consists of ancient African continental crust - primary rock that has been pushed over Europe.
- On a hike via Hohbalm - at the foot of the Obergabelhorn - the geological contrasts are particularly visible.
- The classic crossing from the Arbenbiwak is considered one of the most beautiful tours in the Alps. Many consider the bivouac to be the best situated in the entire Alpine region - with a direct view of the north face of the Matterhorn.
Do I need a mountain guide for a high-altitude tour?
Yes, especially for beginners, the company of a certified mountain guide is highly recommended. Alpine tours often lead over glaciers with crevasses, steep firn flanks and exposed ridges. An experienced guide not only ensures safety, but also imparts valuable knowledge about technique, route selection and alpine dangers.
What advantages does a local mountain guide offer?
A local mountain guide knows the specific conditions of the region, such as weather conditions, glacier conditions and current route conditions. This expertise enables flexible tour planning and increases safety. In addition, a local guide enriches the experience with background information on the local mountains and culture.
What should I look out for when booking a mountain guide?
Make sure that your mountain guide is certified according to the standards of the International Union of Mountain Guide Associations (UIAGM/IFMGA). This certification guarantees comprehensive training and compliance with the highest safety standards. All ZERMATTERS mountain guides are trained according to these international guidelines.
What levels of difficulty are alpine tours divided into?
Alpine tours are rated according to the SAC mountain and alpine tour scale, which ranges from L (easy) to EX (extremely difficult). The French designations range from F (facile) to ED (extrêmement difficile). These classifications take into account the technical requirements, length of the tour and objective dangers.
What equipment do I need for an alpine tour?
The equipment required varies depending on the alpine tour and can be viewed directly on the equipment list for the respective ski tour.
In general, the standard equipment for an alpine tour includes
- Crampon-proof mountain boots
- Crampons
- Ice axe
- Climbing harness
- Rope (depending on tour type and group size)
- Carabiners and slings
- helmet
- Warm, weatherproof clothing
- Sunglasses and sun protection
- First aid kit
- Map, compass or GPS device
When will a decision be made on the implementation of the high tour?
The final decision on whether to go ahead with an alpine tour is usually made 48 hours (sometimes only 24 hours) before the start of the tour, based on current weather and route conditions. You will be informed by us as early as possible about possible changes or cancellations.
How do I choose the right high-altitude tour for my ability?
The choice of an alpine tour should always be based on your personal ability and alpine experience. A gradual progression - from shorter to longer tours, from easy to technically more demanding - is advisable. Our mountain guides are happy to accompany you on this path and support you in your alpine development
Our offers are therefore provided with clear information on the level of difficulty, required stamina and technique to help you make the right decision. We are happy to provide you with personal advice directly. Come and visit us at the home base!
How can I best prepare myself for a high-altitude tour?
Good preparation is the key to a safe and enjoyable high-altitude experience. Regular endurance training - such as hiking, running or cycling - not only improves your fitness, but also your resilience at high altitudes. Technique training is just as important: you need to practise using crampons and ice axes to be able to move safely in the terrain. If you also attend alpine courses, study maps and familiarize yourself with meteorology and alpine dangers, you will have a solid foundation for making independent decisions in the mountains. Our mountain guides will not only support you along the way, but will also be happy to give you tips on how best to prepare - so that your alpine tour with ZERMATTERS is an unforgettable experience.
How difficult are alpine tours and how are they classified?
Alpine tours can be divided into seven main levels of difficulty according to the SAC Alpine Touring Scale:
- L: Easy
- WS: Not very difficult
- ZS: Fairly difficult
- S: Difficult
- SS: Very difficult
- AS: Extremely Difficult
- EX: Extremely difficult
Some of these grades can be additionally refined by a minus (-) or plus (+) to allow even more precise grading.
The rating is based on main criteria such as steepness, exposure, technical requirements and type of terrain (e.g. firn, ice, rock or glacier). Auxiliary criteria such as objective hazards, retreat options and seriousness of the route are also taken into account.
What happens if I don't meet the requirements for a tour?
Our mountain guides not only have a lot of experience, but also pay attention to the difficulty level of the tour when assessing it. At the same time, they decide on site whether the tour can be carried out as planned. If you do not meet the requirements and this compromises safety or the course of the tour, the tour may have to be adjusted or terminated prematurely. This decision is always made in the interests of the safety of everyone involved.
By the way, with a private mountain guide you are more flexible and can adjust the pace and route individually.
- Endurance
4Hiking Time: 8–9 hours. Up to approx. 1600 vertical meters. For experienced alpinists with excellent stamina. - Technik
4You've already climbed several 4000-meter peaks and are well acclimatized. Handling ice axe and crampons is second nature to you. Ridge climbs up to grade III and steep terrain on rock and ice pose no problem. - Duration
approx. 12 h - Date
Mid-July - Mid-September - Participants
1 person
The ascent of the Obergabelhorn is a real alpine adventure - challenging, long and scenically stunning. You start directly from Zermatt, without cable car support and with an overnight stay in a hut. You will be rewarded with a double summit experience, spectacular ridge climbing and one of the most beautiful panoramic views in the Alps. A high-altitude tour for ambitious alpinists - guided by the professionals of the ZERMATTERS.
Highlights
Duration
- Ascent to the summit of the Obergabelhorn (4,062 m): approx. 6 - 7 hours from the Rothornhütte
- Descent back to the Rothornhütte (3,260 m): approx. 5 hours
Description (from Rothornhütte)
Early in the morning, we climb from the Rothornhütte over the Trift Glacier up to the shoulder of the Wellenkuppe, where the climbing begins. Shortly before the summit of the Wellenkuppe, the rock turns to firn - we cross it and continue towards the Gendarm, the key point of the tour.
As a rule, we climb the Gendarm directly - an impressive rock tooth with a fantastic view down. Behind it, firn passages and easy climbing await you up to the summit of the Obergabelhorn (4,063 m). The way back follows the same route - technically demanding, but with impressive views of the four-thousand-metre peaks around Zermatt.
Program
Day 1: Individual ascent to the Rothorn hut
- Individual hike to the Rothornhütte from Zermatt
- Meeting point with your local, IFMGA-certified mountain guide at around 18:00 at the hut
Day 2: Ascent of Obergabelhorn
- Individual breakfast
- Start around 04:00
- Ascent via the Trift Glacier and the Wellenkuppe (normal route)
- Ascent of the Obergabelhorn over firn and rock
- Descent on the same route to the Rothornhütte
- Farewell and return hike to Zermatt
Additional costs
- Overnight stay and half board in the Rothornhütte for you and your mountain guide: from approx. CHF 86.00 per person
- Rental equipment: between CHF 50.00 and CHF 70.00, available from a sports store in Zermatt
Material
So that you are well equipped for the ascent of the Obergabelhorn, you should definitely have this equipment with you:
- Crampon compatible mountain shoes with a rigid Vibram sole
- Harness
- 1 carabiner
- Crampons with anti-balling plates
- Ice axe (for the Matterhorn: depending on the conditions)
- Hiking pole
- Helmet
- Backpack, approx. 30 l
- Warm and weatherproof clothes
- Finger gloves (evtl.changing gloves)
- Beanie / headband
- Sunglasses and sun protection
- Headlamp
- Drinks
- Energetic snacks (high energy foods such as chocolate, dried fruit etc.)
- Washing kit
- Few changing clothes
- Bandades
- Small personal pharmacy
- Innenliner (mandatory)
- Money, passport
Notes
The ascent of the Obergabelhorn is a challenging high-altitude tour. When making your booking inquiry, please let us know which four-thousand-metre peaks you have already climbed and what other mountaineering experience you have (Kilimanjaro and Mont Blanc Normalweg are not comparable with the Obergabelhorn, as these are not rock tours).
We recommend that you prepare for the challenge in advance with a guided training tour with us - for example on the Breithorn Traverse, Pollux or Riffelhorn. This is also an ideal way to acclimatize. This can also be done in a group, provided another person has registered for it.
After booking
After booking, you will receive a confirmation by email. Please check that your details are correct.
Two days before the tour, you will receive a link to the customer portal.
Please contact us before the tour to go over the details (current weather, conditions, group size, etc.). You can reach us by phone, email or visit us at the ZERMATTERS Homebase.
The Obergabelhorn
General information about the Obergabelhorn
- The Obergabelhorn is 4,063 m high and lies between Dent Blanche and Zinalrothorn - in the middle of the Couronne Impériale.
- The ascent is either via the Wellenkuppe (from Rothornhütte) or via the Arbengrat (from Arbenbiwak).
- The Obergabelhorn has a glaciated north face and a completely snow-free south face - both are still climbed today.
Special features of the Obergabelhorn
- The entire summit chain from the Matterhorn to the Weisshorn consists of ancient African continental crust - primary rock that has been pushed over Europe.
- On a hike via Hohbalm - at the foot of the Obergabelhorn - the geological contrasts are particularly visible.
- The classic crossing from the Arbenbiwak is considered one of the most beautiful tours in the Alps. Many consider the bivouac to be the best situated in the entire Alpine region - with a direct view of the north face of the Matterhorn.
Do I need a mountain guide for a high-altitude tour?
Yes, especially for beginners, the company of a certified mountain guide is highly recommended. Alpine tours often lead over glaciers with crevasses, steep firn flanks and exposed ridges. An experienced guide not only ensures safety, but also imparts valuable knowledge about technique, route selection and alpine dangers.
What advantages does a local mountain guide offer?
A local mountain guide knows the specific conditions of the region, such as weather conditions, glacier conditions and current route conditions. This expertise enables flexible tour planning and increases safety. In addition, a local guide enriches the experience with background information on the local mountains and culture.
What should I look out for when booking a mountain guide?
Make sure that your mountain guide is certified according to the standards of the International Union of Mountain Guide Associations (UIAGM/IFMGA). This certification guarantees comprehensive training and compliance with the highest safety standards. All ZERMATTERS mountain guides are trained according to these international guidelines.
What levels of difficulty are alpine tours divided into?
Alpine tours are rated according to the SAC mountain and alpine tour scale, which ranges from L (easy) to EX (extremely difficult). The French designations range from F (facile) to ED (extrêmement difficile). These classifications take into account the technical requirements, length of the tour and objective dangers.
What equipment do I need for an alpine tour?
The equipment required varies depending on the alpine tour and can be viewed directly on the equipment list for the respective ski tour.
In general, the standard equipment for an alpine tour includes
- Crampon-proof mountain boots
- Crampons
- Ice axe
- Climbing harness
- Rope (depending on tour type and group size)
- Carabiners and slings
- helmet
- Warm, weatherproof clothing
- Sunglasses and sun protection
- First aid kit
- Map, compass or GPS device
When will a decision be made on the implementation of the high tour?
The final decision on whether to go ahead with an alpine tour is usually made 48 hours (sometimes only 24 hours) before the start of the tour, based on current weather and route conditions. You will be informed by us as early as possible about possible changes or cancellations.
How do I choose the right high-altitude tour for my ability?
The choice of an alpine tour should always be based on your personal ability and alpine experience. A gradual progression - from shorter to longer tours, from easy to technically more demanding - is advisable. Our mountain guides are happy to accompany you on this path and support you in your alpine development
Our offers are therefore provided with clear information on the level of difficulty, required stamina and technique to help you make the right decision. We are happy to provide you with personal advice directly. Come and visit us at the home base!
How can I best prepare myself for a high-altitude tour?
Good preparation is the key to a safe and enjoyable high-altitude experience. Regular endurance training - such as hiking, running or cycling - not only improves your fitness, but also your resilience at high altitudes. Technique training is just as important: you need to practise using crampons and ice axes to be able to move safely in the terrain. If you also attend alpine courses, study maps and familiarize yourself with meteorology and alpine dangers, you will have a solid foundation for making independent decisions in the mountains. Our mountain guides will not only support you along the way, but will also be happy to give you tips on how best to prepare - so that your alpine tour with ZERMATTERS is an unforgettable experience.
How difficult are alpine tours and how are they classified?
Alpine tours can be divided into seven main levels of difficulty according to the SAC Alpine Touring Scale:
- L: Easy
- WS: Not very difficult
- ZS: Fairly difficult
- S: Difficult
- SS: Very difficult
- AS: Extremely Difficult
- EX: Extremely difficult
Some of these grades can be additionally refined by a minus (-) or plus (+) to allow even more precise grading.
The rating is based on main criteria such as steepness, exposure, technical requirements and type of terrain (e.g. firn, ice, rock or glacier). Auxiliary criteria such as objective hazards, retreat options and seriousness of the route are also taken into account.
What happens if I don't meet the requirements for a tour?
Our mountain guides not only have a lot of experience, but also pay attention to the difficulty level of the tour when assessing it. At the same time, they decide on site whether the tour can be carried out as planned. If you do not meet the requirements and this compromises safety or the course of the tour, the tour may have to be adjusted or terminated prematurely. This decision is always made in the interests of the safety of everyone involved.
By the way, with a private mountain guide you are more flexible and can adjust the pace and route individually.
