The Matterhorn - myths, courage and legends
It has now been 160 years since the last of the known 4,000-meter peaks around Zermatt was first climbed. On July 14, 1865, only 20 minutes separated triumph from disaster. The fascination of the Matterhorn – immerse yourself in the world of its stories and their protagonists.
The local population in the 18th century lived as farmers and were very religious. They saw no reason to climb a peak, as they had enough to do in the summer. And what would await you up there? Ghosts and demons, according to the widespread belief. These mountains were therefore more of a threat, including avalanches, rockfalls and landslides, than desirable destinations.
However, after the first naturalists from the region ventured into the heights, the English also began to climb peaks, paving the way for sporting alpinism...
The mountain of mountains - first ascent and stories
Gradually, one 4,000-meter peak after another was climbed for the first time - the challenging "Hore" was one of the last to be climbed. On July 13, 1865, a 7-man rope team made the all-important attempt. With the locals Peter Taugwalder father & son and Michel Croz from Chamonix as mountain guides and the Englishmen Edward Whymper, Lord Francis Douglas, Reverend Charles Hudson and Douglas Hadow, the first people stood on the summit on July 14, 1865 at 13:40 in the afternoon: what a triumph! Also over their rivals Jean-Antoine Carrel and Jean-Baptiste Bich, who made the attempt from the Italian side and reached the summit on July 17.
Much has already been written about the tragedy that occurred just twenty minutes after the summit success - may they all rest in peace.
More heroic stories should not remain untold:
The Englishwoman Lucy Walker was the first woman to climb the Matterhorn in 1871 at the age of 31. She mastered the ascent in a long skirt, accompanied by her mountain guide Melchior Anderegg. Her summit success made headlines around the world at the time and is considered a milestone in the history of women's mountaineering.
Ulrich Inderbinen: The Zermatt mountain guide climbed the Matterhorn at the age of 90. He was by far the oldest person to climb the Matterhorn and was 103 years old. In his impressive career, he stood on the summit over 370 times. Despite his fame, he remained modest and still cycled to the village every day at the age of 95. To this day, Inderbinen is regarded as a symbol of endurance, humility and true Zermatt mountain expertise.
Richard Andenmatten, another mountain guide from Zermatt, holds the record for the number of Matterhorn ascents. He has been to the summit around 900 times - more than anyone else. For decades, he has accompanied guests from all over the world up the iconic mountain, in wind, weather and snow. His experience on the Matterhorn is unique; he knew every pitch in his sleep. For him, the summit was not a goal, but his daily workplace and life's work.
Toni Valeruz from Canazei dared to do the unimaginable in 1975: he was the first person to ski down the east face of the Matterhorn. The start was at 4,200 meters above sea level, around 250 meters below the summit, as the uppermost part is overhanging and therefore impassable. The east face is extremely steep, over 60 degrees in places, and is considered one of the most dangerous descents in the Alps. Valeruz mastered it with precision, courage and exceptional skill.
The fastest on the route from Kirchplatz Zermatt to the Matterhorn summit and back is ZERMATTERS mountain guide Andreas Steindl: 3h59'52''. An incredible achievement when you consider that many mountaineers need around four hours just to climb from the Hörnlihütte to the summit. Steindl combines alpine experience with world-class endurance. A truly exceptional athlete from Zermatt.
In 1950, a black and white kitten caused a sensation: The animal, only around 10 months old, climbed from the Hörnli hut to the summit of the Matterhorn on its own. An ascent of over 1,200 meters in altitude to over 4,400 m. The cat belonged to the cook at the Belvédère mountain hotel, now the Hörnlihütte. Her ascent was observed by mountain guides, who later took her safely down to the valley in their rucksacks. The kitten became a minor celebrity and probably the most unusual climber of the Matterhorn. The story of this very special cat is also recorded in Wolli Wonderland.
Source: "The Matterhorn and its mountain guides" by Hermann Biner
Discover historic Zermatt with its mountain guides
Here you can immerse yourself in the mountain world of past centuries: You can see how the inhabitants of Zermatt lived in the 19th century and shudder at the sight of the broken rope from the first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865, when four out of seven climbers lost their lives. And you marvel at the sight of "Theo". This is the "mercenary" from the 16th century who failed to make the crossing over the Theodul Pass.
Matterhorn Museum - Zermatlantis | Zermatt
Discover the Hörnlihütte at the foot of the Matterhorn with a ZERMATTERS hiking guide or mountain guide and experience the fascination of the Matterhorn up close. The Hörnlihütte was built in 1880 at an altitude of 3,260 m and has served as a base camp for Matterhorn climbs ever since. After several renovations, it now offers space for 150 guests and has modern amenities. The terrace of the Hörnlihütte offers an incomparable view of the Matterhorn. With binoculars, you can even watch mountaineers making their way to the summit in the early hours of the morning
Hike to the Hörnlihütte - At the foot of the Matterhorn
To the summit
A coveted destination for experienced alpinists is the ascent of the Matterhorn. The tour is one of the most famous high alpine ascents and requires not only very good physical condition but also alpine experience and careful preparation. In stable weather conditions, the ascent via the Hörnligrat is possible in the summer months and is usually undertaken together with a certified local mountain guide. For many, this ascent is considered the highlight of their alpine career - an impressive experience in the midst of the imposing high mountain landscape around Zermatt.
