Pollux and Castor via the Ayas Hut
Two four-thousanders in two days, with a night in Italy
Endurance
2Hiking Time: 4–5 hours. Up to approx. 900 vertical meters. For athletic mountain hikers with good base fitness.
Technik
3Du bist geübt im Klettern in der 2. Stufe & in mässig steilem Gelände auf Fels & Eis. Der Umgang mit Steigeisen, Pickel & Seiltechnik ist dir vertraut. Du hast Touren mit kombiniertem Gelände gemeistert & bewegst dich sicher in Spaltenzonen & auf Graten.
Duration
2 days
Date
Mid June - Mid September
Participants
1-2 people
Gallery (8)
Castor and Pollux are known as the twins, two four-thousanders set between the mighty massifs of the Breithorn and the Liskamm. Seen from the north, they stand out as striking glaciated silhouettes, and their traverse is one of the classics of the region. With a night at the Ayas Hut on Italian soil, both summits can be combined: wide glacier fields, climbing sections on the Pollux and a firn ridge to the summit of the Castor.
Highlights
Description
The tour begins with the cable car ride to the Klein Matterhorn at 3,883 m. The route leads across the Breithorn plateau along the south side of the Breithorn towards the twins. At the foot of the Pollux, the first ascent begins through rocky terrain up to the Madonna statue. The climbing sections are manageable for experienced alpinists and also suitable for beginners. A final firn slope leads to the summit at 4,090 m. You descend by the same route and continue to the Ayas Hut at around 3,300 m, where the day ends with dinner and an overnight stay.
On the second morning, you set off early towards the twins again, past the Pollux and the Zwillingsjoch to the foot of the Castor. Steady traverses lead up the west flank to a col, from where the final steep firn ridge brings you to the summit at 4,223 m. The return follows the same route and continues across the Breithorn plateau back to the Klein Matterhorn.
Program
Meet your local, IFMGA-certified mountain guide at 06:30 at the Matterhorn Express valley station (depending on the season)
Cable car ride together to the Klein Matterhorn station and start of the tour towards the Pollux
Ascent of the Pollux (4,090 m) via the normal route, followed by the descent
Arrival and overnight stay at the Ayas Hut on Italian soil
Ascent from the Ayas Hut to the Castor via the normal route (west flank)
Descent via the normal route and return to the Klein Matterhorn (3,883 m)
Journey back to Zermatt together and farewell
Hut reservation
When you book a tour that includes one or more overnight stays at a mountain hut, we take care of the hut reservation for you. Please let us know if you are vegetarian or vegan. We will confirm the tour as soon as the hut reservation is in place, unfortunately we cannot guarantee it in advance. If you already have your own hut reservation, please let us know so that we can reserve the hut for your mountain guide. The overnight stays are not included in the price.
Additional costs
- Return train ticket Zermatt to Klein Matterhorn: from approx. CHF 57.00. Discount with GA, Half Fare Card or Swiss Travel Pass (more information at Zermatt Bergbahnen AG)
- Equipment rental: between CHF 50.00 and CHF 70.00, available at a sports shop in Zermatt
- Overnight stay and half board at the Ayas Hut for you and your mountain guide: from approx. EUR 80.00 per person
Pollux und Castor
General information about the twins
- The Pollux and the Castor are both four-thousanders, at 4,090 m and 4,223 m.
- They lie between the Breithorn and the Liskamm and look almost identical, especially seen from the south.
- Both summits can also be done as separate day tours, in summer as well as in winter, and are among the most popular day tours in the region.
What makes the twins special
- Castor and Pollux come from Greek mythology, twin brothers, inseparable yet as different as their mountains: the Castor a firn tour, the Pollux a climb.
- The rock of the Pollux has a blue-green tint that gives the mountain its own character, unlike the reddish granite of the Castor.
- A distinct geological boundary runs between the two mountains, a fascinating transition between ancient bedrock and marine deposits.
Do I need a mountain guide for a high-altitude tour?
Yes, especially for beginners, the company of a certified mountain guide is highly recommended. Alpine tours often lead over glaciers with crevasses, steep firn flanks and exposed ridges. An experienced guide not only ensures safety, but also imparts valuable knowledge about technique, route selection and alpine dangers.
What advantages does a local mountain guide offer?
A local mountain guide knows the specific conditions of the region, such as weather conditions, glacier conditions and current route conditions. This expertise enables flexible tour planning and increases safety. In addition, a local guide enriches the experience with background information on the local mountains and culture.
What should I look out for when booking a mountain guide?
Make sure that your mountain guide is certified according to the standards of the International Union of Mountain Guide Associations (UIAGM/IFMGA). This certification guarantees comprehensive training and compliance with the highest safety standards. All ZERMATTERS mountain guides are trained according to these international guidelines.
What levels of difficulty are alpine tours divided into?
Alpine tours are rated according to the SAC mountain and alpine tour scale, which ranges from L (easy) to EX (extremely difficult). The French designations range from F (facile) to ED (extrêmement difficile). These classifications take into account the technical requirements, length of the tour and objective dangers.
What equipment do I need for an alpine tour?
The equipment required varies depending on the alpine tour and can be viewed directly on the equipment list for the respective ski tour.
In general, the standard equipment for an alpine tour includes
- Crampon-proof mountain boots
- Crampons
- Ice axe
- Climbing harness
- Rope (depending on tour type and group size)
- Carabiners and slings
- helmet
- Warm, weatherproof clothing
- Sunglasses and sun protection
- First aid kit
- Map, compass or GPS device
When will a decision be made on the implementation of the high tour?
The final decision on whether to go ahead with an alpine tour is usually made 48 hours (sometimes only 24 hours) before the start of the tour, based on current weather and route conditions. You will be informed by us as early as possible about possible changes or cancellations.
How do I choose the right high-altitude tour for my ability?
The choice of an alpine tour should always be based on your personal ability and alpine experience. A gradual progression - from shorter to longer tours, from easy to technically more demanding - is advisable. Our mountain guides are happy to accompany you on this path and support you in your alpine development
Our offers are therefore provided with clear information on the level of difficulty, required stamina and technique to help you make the right decision. We are happy to provide you with personal advice directly. Come and visit us at the home base!
How can I best prepare myself for a high-altitude tour?
Good preparation is the key to a safe and enjoyable high-altitude experience. Regular endurance training - such as hiking, running or cycling - not only improves your fitness, but also your resilience at high altitudes. Technique training is just as important: you need to practise using crampons and ice axes to be able to move safely in the terrain. If you also attend alpine courses, study maps and familiarize yourself with meteorology and alpine dangers, you will have a solid foundation for making independent decisions in the mountains. Our mountain guides will not only support you along the way, but will also be happy to give you tips on how best to prepare - so that your alpine tour with ZERMATTERS is an unforgettable experience.
How difficult are alpine tours and how are they classified?
Alpine tours can be divided into seven main levels of difficulty according to the SAC Alpine Touring Scale:
- L: Easy
- WS: Not very difficult
- ZS: Fairly difficult
- S: Difficult
- SS: Very difficult
- AS: Extremely Difficult
- EX: Extremely difficult
Some of these grades can be additionally refined by a minus (-) or plus (+) to allow even more precise grading.
The rating is based on main criteria such as steepness, exposure, technical requirements and type of terrain (e.g. firn, ice, rock or glacier). Auxiliary criteria such as objective hazards, retreat options and seriousness of the route are also taken into account.
What happens if I don't meet the requirements for a tour?
Our mountain guides not only have a lot of experience, but also pay attention to the difficulty level of the tour when assessing it. At the same time, they decide on site whether the tour can be carried out as planned. If you do not meet the requirements and this compromises safety or the course of the tour, the tour may have to be adjusted or terminated prematurely. This decision is always made in the interests of the safety of everyone involved.
By the way, with a private mountain guide you are more flexible and can adjust the pace and route individually.
Castor and Pollux are known as the twins, two four-thousanders set between the mighty massifs of the Breithorn and the Liskamm. Seen from the north, they stand out as striking glaciated silhouettes, and their traverse is one of the classics of the region. With a night at the Ayas Hut on Italian soil, both summits can be combined: wide glacier fields, climbing sections on the Pollux and a firn ridge to the summit of the Castor.
- Endurance
2Hiking Time: 4–5 hours. Up to approx. 900 vertical meters. For athletic mountain hikers with good base fitness. - Technik
3Du bist geübt im Klettern in der 2. Stufe & in mässig steilem Gelände auf Fels & Eis. Der Umgang mit Steigeisen, Pickel & Seiltechnik ist dir vertraut. Du hast Touren mit kombiniertem Gelände gemeistert & bewegst dich sicher in Spaltenzonen & auf Graten. - Duration
2 days - Date
Mid June - Mid September - Participants
1-2 people
Highlights
Duration
- Ascent to the summit of the Pollux (4,090 m) and descent to the Ayas Hut: approx. 4 to 5 hours
- Ascent to the Castor (4,223 m) and return to the Klein Matterhorn station (3,883 m): approx. 5 to 6 hours
Dates
Daily from mid-June to mid-September, depending on conditions and on the opening hours of the Ayas Hut
Number of participants
1 to 2 participants per mountain guide, depending on conditions only 1 participant per guide
Description
The tour begins with the cable car ride to the Klein Matterhorn at 3,883 m. The route leads across the Breithorn plateau along the south side of the Breithorn towards the twins. At the foot of the Pollux, the first ascent begins through rocky terrain up to the Madonna statue. The climbing sections are manageable for experienced alpinists and also suitable for beginners. A final firn slope leads to the summit at 4,090 m. You descend by the same route and continue to the Ayas Hut at around 3,300 m, where the day ends with dinner and an overnight stay.
On the second morning, you set off early towards the twins again, past the Pollux and the Zwillingsjoch to the foot of the Castor. Steady traverses lead up the west flank to a col, from where the final steep firn ridge brings you to the summit at 4,223 m. The return follows the same route and continues across the Breithorn plateau back to the Klein Matterhorn.
Program
Meet your local, IFMGA-certified mountain guide at 06:30 at the Matterhorn Express valley station (depending on the season)
Cable car ride together to the Klein Matterhorn station and start of the tour towards the Pollux
Ascent of the Pollux (4,090 m) via the normal route, followed by the descent
Arrival and overnight stay at the Ayas Hut on Italian soil
Ascent from the Ayas Hut to the Castor via the normal route (west flank)
Descent via the normal route and return to the Klein Matterhorn (3,883 m)
Journey back to Zermatt together and farewell
Hut reservation
When you book a tour that includes one or more overnight stays at a mountain hut, we take care of the hut reservation for you. Please let us know if you are vegetarian or vegan. We will confirm the tour as soon as the hut reservation is in place, unfortunately we cannot guarantee it in advance. If you already have your own hut reservation, please let us know so that we can reserve the hut for your mountain guide. The overnight stays are not included in the price.
Additional costs
- Return train ticket Zermatt to Klein Matterhorn: from approx. CHF 57.00. Discount with GA, Half Fare Card or Swiss Travel Pass (more information at Zermatt Bergbahnen AG)
- Equipment rental: between CHF 50.00 and CHF 70.00, available at a sports shop in Zermatt
- Overnight stay and half board at the Ayas Hut for you and your mountain guide: from approx. EUR 80.00 per person
Equipment
To be properly equipped for your ascent of the twins, you should definitely have this equipment with you:
Pollux und Castor
General information about the twins
- The Pollux and the Castor are both four-thousanders, at 4,090 m and 4,223 m.
- They lie between the Breithorn and the Liskamm and look almost identical, especially seen from the south.
- Both summits can also be done as separate day tours, in summer as well as in winter, and are among the most popular day tours in the region.
What makes the twins special
- Castor and Pollux come from Greek mythology, twin brothers, inseparable yet as different as their mountains: the Castor a firn tour, the Pollux a climb.
- The rock of the Pollux has a blue-green tint that gives the mountain its own character, unlike the reddish granite of the Castor.
- A distinct geological boundary runs between the two mountains, a fascinating transition between ancient bedrock and marine deposits.
Do I need a mountain guide for a high-altitude tour?
Yes, especially for beginners, the company of a certified mountain guide is highly recommended. Alpine tours often lead over glaciers with crevasses, steep firn flanks and exposed ridges. An experienced guide not only ensures safety, but also imparts valuable knowledge about technique, route selection and alpine dangers.
What advantages does a local mountain guide offer?
A local mountain guide knows the specific conditions of the region, such as weather conditions, glacier conditions and current route conditions. This expertise enables flexible tour planning and increases safety. In addition, a local guide enriches the experience with background information on the local mountains and culture.
What should I look out for when booking a mountain guide?
Make sure that your mountain guide is certified according to the standards of the International Union of Mountain Guide Associations (UIAGM/IFMGA). This certification guarantees comprehensive training and compliance with the highest safety standards. All ZERMATTERS mountain guides are trained according to these international guidelines.
What levels of difficulty are alpine tours divided into?
Alpine tours are rated according to the SAC mountain and alpine tour scale, which ranges from L (easy) to EX (extremely difficult). The French designations range from F (facile) to ED (extrêmement difficile). These classifications take into account the technical requirements, length of the tour and objective dangers.
What equipment do I need for an alpine tour?
The equipment required varies depending on the alpine tour and can be viewed directly on the equipment list for the respective ski tour.
In general, the standard equipment for an alpine tour includes
- Crampon-proof mountain boots
- Crampons
- Ice axe
- Climbing harness
- Rope (depending on tour type and group size)
- Carabiners and slings
- helmet
- Warm, weatherproof clothing
- Sunglasses and sun protection
- First aid kit
- Map, compass or GPS device
When will a decision be made on the implementation of the high tour?
The final decision on whether to go ahead with an alpine tour is usually made 48 hours (sometimes only 24 hours) before the start of the tour, based on current weather and route conditions. You will be informed by us as early as possible about possible changes or cancellations.
How do I choose the right high-altitude tour for my ability?
The choice of an alpine tour should always be based on your personal ability and alpine experience. A gradual progression - from shorter to longer tours, from easy to technically more demanding - is advisable. Our mountain guides are happy to accompany you on this path and support you in your alpine development
Our offers are therefore provided with clear information on the level of difficulty, required stamina and technique to help you make the right decision. We are happy to provide you with personal advice directly. Come and visit us at the home base!
How can I best prepare myself for a high-altitude tour?
Good preparation is the key to a safe and enjoyable high-altitude experience. Regular endurance training - such as hiking, running or cycling - not only improves your fitness, but also your resilience at high altitudes. Technique training is just as important: you need to practise using crampons and ice axes to be able to move safely in the terrain. If you also attend alpine courses, study maps and familiarize yourself with meteorology and alpine dangers, you will have a solid foundation for making independent decisions in the mountains. Our mountain guides will not only support you along the way, but will also be happy to give you tips on how best to prepare - so that your alpine tour with ZERMATTERS is an unforgettable experience.
How difficult are alpine tours and how are they classified?
Alpine tours can be divided into seven main levels of difficulty according to the SAC Alpine Touring Scale:
- L: Easy
- WS: Not very difficult
- ZS: Fairly difficult
- S: Difficult
- SS: Very difficult
- AS: Extremely Difficult
- EX: Extremely difficult
Some of these grades can be additionally refined by a minus (-) or plus (+) to allow even more precise grading.
The rating is based on main criteria such as steepness, exposure, technical requirements and type of terrain (e.g. firn, ice, rock or glacier). Auxiliary criteria such as objective hazards, retreat options and seriousness of the route are also taken into account.
What happens if I don't meet the requirements for a tour?
Our mountain guides not only have a lot of experience, but also pay attention to the difficulty level of the tour when assessing it. At the same time, they decide on site whether the tour can be carried out as planned. If you do not meet the requirements and this compromises safety or the course of the tour, the tour may have to be adjusted or terminated prematurely. This decision is always made in the interests of the safety of everyone involved.
By the way, with a private mountain guide you are more flexible and can adjust the pace and route individually.
