Ski tour Schwarztor - Dufourspitze

Ski tour to the Dufourspitze via Schwarztor

  • Endurance
    5
    Walking time more than 10 hours. Over 1800 metres in altitude. Long, challenging tours for highly trained and high-alpine guests.
  • Technique
    4
    You already have a few 4000-metre peaks under your belt and are very well acclimatised. You are comfortable with ice axes and crampons. Ridge climbing up to the 3rd degree of difficulty and steep terrain on rock and ice are no problem for you.
  • Duration
    2 days
  • Date
    Mid-March - Mid-May
  • Participants
    1 - 2 people

The Dufourspitze is 4'634 m high and marks the highest point in Switzerland. Our experienced mountain guides will expertly lead you to the Dufourspitze via Schwarztor, the gap between Breithorn and Pollux, and with an overnight stay at the Monte Rosa hut.


About this tour



Duration

  • The ski tour to the Dufourspitze is divided into two ascent days:
  • Day 1
    • Descent to the Grande Ghiacciaio di Verra and counter ascent to the Schwarztor (3,722 m): approx. 2 hours
    • Descent via Schwarztor to the Gorner Glacier: approx. 1 hour
    • Ascent to the Monte Rosa hut (2,882 m): approx. 3 hours
  • 2nd day
    • Ascent to the Dufourspitze (4,634 m): approx. 6 hours
    • Descent to the ski depot and descent back to the Monte Rosa hut (2,882 m): approx. 3 hours
    • Descent to Zermatt (1620 m): approx. 2 hours

Date

Daily from mid-March to mid-May, depending on the conditions


Number of participants

1 - 2 participants per mountain guide


Description

Our ski tour begins at the Klein Matterhorn mountain station. From here we cross the wide, glaciated Breithorn plateau. Our view extends as far as Pollux, Castor and the mighty Liskamm. After a first descent along the southern flank of the Breithorn, we reach the saddle between Roccia Nera and Pollux. There we put our skins on our skis and make a short ascent to the Schwarztor. The first glacier descent leads us through an impressive high mountain landscape down to the Gorner Glacier. This is followed by a longer ascent to the Monte Rosa hut, where we spend the night.

The next morning we set off bright and early with headlamps and climbing skins on our skis. The route leads over the imposing Monte Rosa glacier to the ski depot on the saddle. There we switch to crampons and climb over the west ridge with climbing sections up to 4th degree and firn ridge to the highest point in Switzerland: the 4,634 m high Dufourspitze.

A breathtaking panoramic view from Mont Blanc to the Gran Paradiso and the Capanna Regina Margherita, the highest mountain hut in Europe, awaits you at the top. After the summit experience, we return to the ski depot via the ascent route. Then the crowning glory begins: a 20-kilometre descent over glaciers and moraines back to Zermatt.


Program

1

Day 1: Schwarztor and Ascent to the Monte Rosa Hut

  • Meeting with your local and IFMGA-certified mountain guide at 8:15 am at the Matterhorn Express valley station (depending on the season)
  • Cable car ride to the Klein Matterhorn mountain station
  • Descent along the south side of the Breithorn and counter-ascent to the Schwarztor
  • Glacier descent to the underlying Gorner Glacier
  • Final ascent to the Monte Rosa Hut
2

Jour 2 : Ascension de la Pointe Dufour et descente vers Zermatt

  • DĂ©part de la randonnĂ©e Ă  ski avec votre guide privĂ© vers 6h00 du matin (selon la saison)
  • DĂ©pose des skis au dĂ©but de l’arĂȘte ouest
  • Ascension de la Pointe Dufour Ă  pied par la voie normale
  • Descente jusqu’au dĂ©pĂŽt de skis
  • Descente Ă  ski jusqu’à la cabane Monte Rosa
  • Poursuite de la descente sur le glacier du Gorner et Ă  travers la gorge jusqu’à Zermatt (selon la saison)
  • Au revoir Ă  votre guide de montagne

Meeting point

08:15 at the Matterhorn Express valley station, at Dorsaz Sport

Meeting point on Google Maps

Matterhorn Express valley station at Dorsaz Sport


Additional costs

  • Overnight stay and half board in the Monte Rosa hut for you and your mountain guide: from: approx. CHF 90.00 per person
  • Train journey Zermatt-Klein Matterhorn: from approx. CHF 95.00
    Reduction with GA, Half-Fare Card or Swiss Travel Pass (more information can be found at Zermatt Bergbahnen AG)
  • Rental equipment:
    • Avalanche transceiver (LVS), avalanche shovel and avalanche probe: can be rented at the ZERMATTERS Homebase at a special price of CHF 15.00 per person from 17.00 the day before. The rented equipment must be returned to the ZERMATTERS Homebase after the tour by 5 p.m. at the latest
    • Other equipment: from CHF 80.00, available in a sports store in Zermatt

Equipment

To ensure that you are optimally equipped for the ski tour via Schwarztor to the Dufourspitze, you should definitely have this equipment with you.


  • Touring skis with running binding (binding adjusted)
  • Touring ski boots
  • Telescopic poles
  • Backpack should not weigh more than 8-9 kg (skis must be able to be tied on)
  • skins
  • crampons
  • crampons
  • Climbing harness
  • 1 carabiner
  • ice axe
  • shovel
  • probe
  • AVALANCHE TRANSCEIVER
  • Warm, weatherproof touring ski clothing
  • Warm gloves
  • Finger gloves
  • Helmet (optional)
  • Hat / headband
  • Goggles, sunglasses, sun cream
  • Headlamp
  • Silk sleeping bag (obligatory)
  • Thermos flask, drinks
  • Snacks (high-energy food such as chocolate, dried fruit, energy bars)
  • Wash kit
  • Minimal spare underwear
  • Plasters
  • Personal pharmacy
  • Cash, identity card

Equipment rental:
You can rent the following equipment from our office:

  • Avalanche equipment (avalanche transceivers, shovels, probes, ABS backpacks)
  • Crampons
  • Hiking poles
  • Climbing harness
  • Via ferrata set
  • Thin gloves

If you need more equipment, you can hire it from a sports store in Zermatt.


Insurance

Insurance is the responsibility of the participant. We recommend valid accident and evacuation insurance.


After booking

After booking, you will receive a confirmation by email. Please check that your details are correct.

Two days before the tour, you will receive a link to the customer portal.
Please contact us before the tour to go over the details (current weather, conditions, group size, etc.). You can reach us by phone, email or visit us at the ZERMATTERS Homebase.


The Black Gate and the Dufourspitze

General information about the Schwarztor and the Dufourspitze

  • At 4,634 m above sea level, the Dufourspitze in the Monte Rosa massif is the highest peak in Switzerland.
  • The Schwarztor separates the Roccia Nera - the easternmost summit of the Breithorn - from the Pollux

Special features of the Schwarztor and the Dufourspitze

  • The summit was named in 1863 in honor of the Swiss general and cartographer Guillaume-Henri Dufour (1787-1875). Dufour was the publisher of the first accurate map of Switzerland, the so-called Dufour Map.

Safety and risk warnings

  • Even if the tour is technically easy, you should not underestimate the alpine risks. The route leads over glaciers where there is always a risk of crevasses. For this reason, ZERMATTERS will always accompany you professionally and provide you with the necessary safety equipment. Weather changes can occur unexpectedly on the Dufourspitze, which is why the orientation and experience of our local mountain guides are crucial.

"Ski it! Ice Ice Baby!"

Richard Lehner

Mountain guide, hut warden



FAQ

Do I need a mountain guide for a ski tour?

Yes, a mountain guide is highly recommended for a ski tour. Ski tours in alpine terrain require experience in avalanche awareness, route selection and snow conditions. Especially in high alpine regions such as Zermatt, many tours lead through challenging terrain with steep descents and possible crevasses. If you want to get the best out of your ski tour and minimize risks, a professional guide is the best choice.

What are the advantages of a local ski tour guide?

A local ski tour guide from Zermatt knows the mountains, snow and weather conditions like no other. Thanks to his regional expertise, the tour can be optimally planned and flexibly adapted to current conditions. He also enriches the experience with exciting stories and insights into the regional culture and mountain world - for a safe and unforgettable ski tour.

What should I look out for when booking a ski tour guide?

Make sure that your mountain guide is certified according to the standards of the International Union of Mountain Guide Associations (UIAGM/IFMGA). This certification guarantees comprehensive training and compliance with the highest safety standards. All ZERMATTERS mountain guides are trained according to these international guidelines.

What difficulty levels are ski tours divided into?

Ski tours are divided into seven main levels of difficulty according to the SAC ski tour scale:

  • L: Easy
  • WS: Less difficult
  • ZS: Fairly difficult
  • S: Difficult
  • SS: Very difficult
  • AS: Extremely Difficult
  • EX: Extremely difficult

Each of these grades can be additionally refined by a minus (-) or plus (+) to allow finer gradations.

The classification is based on main criteria such as steepness, exposure, terrain shape and bottlenecks in the descent. Auxiliary criteria such as the complexity of the route and the correctability of errors can also be taken into account.

What equipment do I need for a ski tour?

The equipment required varies depending on the ski tour and can be viewed directly on the equipment list for the respective ski tour.

When will a final decision be made about the ski tour?

The final decision is usually made 48 hours before the start of the ski tour, based on current weather and route conditions. The ZERMATTERS home base will inform you in good time and make any necessary adjustments.

How do I choose the right ski tour for my ability?

The choice of ski tour should always be based on your personal ability and alpine experience. Our offers are therefore provided with clear information on the level of difficulty, required stamina and technique to help you make the right decision. We will be happy to provide you with personal advice directly.

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