Schwarztor and Dufourspitze 4'634 m a.s.l.
The Durfourspitze is with its 4’634 m a.s.l. the hightest peak in Switzerland as well as in the whole German speaking area.
The second highest peak in the Alps was renamed in 1863 by the Federal council in honour of the Swiss general and cartographer Guillaume-Herni Dufour (1787-1875). Dufour published the first ever map in Switzerland, the Dufour map is named after him.
The first ascent took place on 1st August 1855 led by Charles Hudson, roped together with John Birbeck, Edward JW Stephenson and brothers Johannes and James G Smyth. The mountain guides Mattäus Zumtaugwald and Ulrich Lauener paved the way for the English men.
The long, demanding tour from the Monte Rosa hut is a great challenge for alpinists.
2 days, approx. 6 hours per day
Daily from mid-March until mid-May ab Mitte März– Mitte Mai (depending on conditions)
1 - max. 2 persons
- Meeting point with your mountain guide at the Matterhorn Express station, where you will take the cable car up to Klein Matterhorn.
- Descent via Unter Theodul glacier or Schwarztor, with afterwards ascent over the Gorner Glacier to the Monte Rosa hut
- Dinner and overnight stay at the Monte Rosa hut
- At about 03:00 a.m. (depending on season) start of the tour with your private mountain guide.
- Ascent from the Monte Rosa hut: approx. 6 hours
- Descent to Zermatt: approx. 5 hours
- Your mountain guide will take you all the way down to Zermatt through Furi
Technical level: ++++
This is a very demanding and long alpine tour. For these demanding 4’000 meters peaks, you need to be very well acclimatised and have very good endurance. You need to have lots of experience using crampons and have already climbed some other 4’000 meter peaks. Alpine climbing in the 3rd to 4th degree of difficulty should be no problem for you.
With a private mountain guide:
- CHF 1'910.00 for 1 person
- CHF 2'415.00 for 2 persons
A deposit of CHF 100.00 per person (included in this price) for all the 2-days tours will be required. This amount is non-refundable (even if you cancel the tour early or if the weather on the day is bad and the tour cannot be postponed).
- Overnight and half board in the Monte Rosa hut for you and your mountain guide: CHF 95.00 per person
- Lift pass from Zermatt to Klein Matterhorn (Winter): CHF 59.00
- Rental equipment: between CHF 50.00 and CHF 70.00 available in a sports shop in Zermatt
The ascent of the Dufourspitze is a demanding high altitude climb. Please inform us, when you book, which other 4’000 meters peaks you have climbed and what other alpine experience you have (Kilimanjaro and Mont-Blanc are not comparable to the Dufourspitze as they are not rock tours).
We strongly recommend a training climb with a mountain guide. The preparation tours can also be done in a group, as long as another person has registered for it.
Insurance is the responsibility of the participant (accident and evacuation insurance)
Please contact us 2-3 days in advance by phone or directly in our ZERMATTERS office to ask about the conditions and to discuss the last details.