Lyskamm 4'357 m.a.s.l
The Lyskamm is a mountain in the Valais Alps east of the Matterhorn and west of the Monte Rosa massif. The huge ridge, several kilometres long, has its highest points in the east (4'533 m a.s.l.) and in the lower west peak (4'479 m a.s.l). The summit ridge crowns the almost 1'000-metre-high, ice-covered north-east face.
The first ascent is dated 19 August 1861 by William Edward Hall, J. F. Hardy, J.A. Hudson, C. H. Pilkington, A. C. Ramsay, T. Rennison, F. Sibson and R. M. Stephenson under the leadership of Franz Josef Lochmatter, Jean-Pierre Cachat, Karl Herr, Stefan Zumtaugwald, Peter Perren and the porter Josef-Marie Perren.
Very long tour! It is usually part of a multi-day tour (spaghetti tour).
Lyskamm crossing with overnight stay on the Capanna Margherita on request.
Daily from mid-July to mid-September (depending on conditions)
1 person – 2 persons (on demand)
- From 06:30 a.m. (depending on the season) meeting point with you private mountain guide at the station of the Matterhorn Express
- You will then take the cable car to the Klein Matterhorn, the starting point for the ascent of the Castor. After arriving on the Klein Matterhorn you will walk over the Breithorn Pass to the Schwarztor and from there you will climb the steep western flank of the Castor to the Sella Hut.
- Overnight stay and half board in the Sella Hut
- The next morning: you will cross the Lyskamm and then continue over the Grenzgletscher to the Monte Rosa Hut, where you can stay overnight or continue to Rotenboden.
Technical level: +++++
Endurance level: ******
You will need to be very well acclimatized and have good endurance for this demanding peak. You must also have experience in other 4’000 meter peaks and have experience climbing with crampons. Alpine climbing in degree 3 to 4 should not be a problem for you.
With a private mountain guide:
- CHF 1'615.00 for 1 person
A deposit of CHF 100.00 per person (included in this price) for all the 2-days tours will be required. This amount is non-refundable (even if you cancel the tour early or if the weather on the day is bad and the tour cannot be postponed).
- Return lift pass from Zermatt to Klein Matterhorn CHF 114.50
- Overnight stays in the huts for you and your mountain guide
- Rental equipment: between CHF 50.00 and CHF 70.00 available in a sports shop in Zermatt
The ascent of the Lyskamm is a demanding high altitude climb. Please inform us, when you book, which other 4’000 meters peaks you have climbed and what other alpine experience you have.
We strongly recommend a training climb with a mountain guide. The preparation tours can also be done in a group, if another person has registered for it.
Insurance is the responsibility of the participant (accident and evacuation insurance)
Please contact us 2-3 days in advance by phone or directly in our ZERMATTERS office to ask about the conditions and to discuss the last details.