Dufour's neighbour

Nordend 4'609 m a.s.l.

(Ice and rock tour)

The Nordend (4,609 m a.s.l.), the secondary peak of the Dufourspitze in the massif of Monte Rosa, impresses with its massive appearance and is located on the border between Italy and Switzerland. It was first climbed on 26 August 1861.

The Nordend is mostly accessed from Zermatt and/or from the station Rotenboden via the Monte Rosa hut. The normal route leads from the Silbersattel (4'515 m a.s.l.) over the south ridge to the summit.

Nordend 4'609 m ü. M.
  • Approx. 6 hours ascent from the Monte Rosa hut
  • Apprrox. 5 hours descent to the Monte Rosa hut
Best period:

Daily from mid-July to mid-September (depending on conditions)

On demand from mid April to the end of May (depending on conditions)


Number of participants:

1 - max. 2 persons



  • The evening before individual ascent to the Monte Rosa hut via Rotenboden
  • Dinner and overnight stay at the Monte Rosa hut
  • At about 02:00 a.m. (depending on season) start of the tour with your private mountain guide
  • Ascent from the Monte Rosa hut: approx. 6 hours
  • Descent to the Monte Rosa hut: approx. 5 hours
  • Afterwards individual return journey to Zermatt via Rotenboden


  • Meeting point with your mountain guide at the Matterhorn Express station, where you will take the cable car up to Klein Matterhorn.
  • Descent via Unter Theodul glacier or Schwarztor, with afterwards ascent over the Gorner Glacier to the Monte Rosa hut
  • Dinner and overnight stay at the Monte Rosa hut
  • At about 03:00 a.m. (depending on season) start of the tour with your private mountain guide.
  • Ascent from the Monte Rosa hut: approx. 6 hours
  • Descent to Zermatt: approx. 5 hours
  • Your mountain guide will take you all the way down to Zermatt through Furi.
Difficulty level:

Technical level: ++++

Endurance level:*****

Requirement table

This is a very demanding and long alpine tour.

For these demanding 4’000 meters peaks, you need to be very well acclimatised and have very good endurance. You need to have lots of experience using crampons and have already climbed some other 4’000 meter peaks. Alpine climbing in the 3rd to 4th degree of difficulty should be no problem for you.


With a private mountain guide:

  • CHF 1'340.00 for 1 person
  • CHF 1'610.00 for 2 persons

A deposit of CHF 100.00 per person (included in this price) for all the 2-days tours will be required. This amount is non-refundable (even if you cancel the tour early or if the weather on the day is bad and the tour cannot be postponed).

Additional costs:
  • Overnight and half board in the Monte Rosa hut for you and your mountain guide: CHF 95.00 per person
  • Return train ticket from Zermatt to Rotenboden (Summer): CHF 106.00
  • Lift pass from Zermatt to Klein Matterhorn (Winter): CHF 59.00
  • Rental equipment: between CHF 50.00 and CHF 70.00 available in a sports shop in Zermatt
Execution or cancellation:

Click here for our general terms and conditions


Please find the equipment list here


The ascent of the Nordend is a demanding high altitude climb. Please inform us, when you book, which other 4’000 meters peaks you have climbed and what other alpine experience you have (Kilimanjaro and Mont-Blanc are not comparable to the Dufourspitze as they are not rock tours).


We strongly recommend a training climb with a mountain guide. The preparation tours can also be done in a group, as long as another person has registered for it.



Insurance is the responsibility of the participant (accident and evacuation insurance)


Please contact us 2-3 days in advance by phone or directly in our ZERMATTERS office to ask about the conditions and to discuss the last details.


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